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Diamond Settings

Diamond setting

Diamond settings are the platform or stage in which the diamond sits. This is how your diamond will be shown to the world. The variety of diamond settings available is almost limitless.

Whether you're choosing a diamond solitaire, a ring with a number of stones, or an open-work lattice ring in which the diamonds flow along the lines of the setting, the way the stones are held in the setting is an integral part of its design.

Each setting technique creates a look that is part of the overall style of the ring. You may like one ring rather than another simply because of the setting technique used.

Prong Setting :

A prong setting is the one most often used to hold a solitaire. A prong setting puts the emphasis on the diamond and not the metal supporting it. The purpose of any setting is to hold the diamonds securely in the mounting and at the same time allow light to enter the diamonds for maximum brilliance.

In such a setting, the prongs are attached to the central setting of a ring, known as the head or basket. Each prong extends upward and outward from the head, arching over the diamond to form a secure grip. The prong setting can also be found in a few variations. One such variation, called the V-prong setting, functions on the same basic concept, but it uses prongs which, when viewed from above, appear to be curved into a V-shape. The right angle of the wire is cut to allow the corner of the gem to rest and be held by the wire.

Bezel Setting :

A bezel setting is a collar of precious metal that wraps around the diamond. The bezel is attached to the top of the ring and stands up above it, adding height and another dimension to the setting. Although solid bezels have a very traditional look, the bezel may be 'split' into two sections, arcing around just part of the diamond. This is called a half bezel.

This simple change suddenly opens up the setting and gives it a totally modern look. The technique may also be used on a fancy cut diamond -- with an arc of precious metal around the wide curve of a pear shape and another, V-shaped section of precious metal embracing the narrow end.

Channel Setting :

Channel setting is also used to set round diamonds. Channel setting offers a sleek, elegant appearance, though the end result is a very different look. Setting round diamonds into channels leaves small spaces closest to the metal bars of the channel. By choosing round diamonds, the designer creates a clean line of stones, yet one with greater brilliance than is possible with baguettes. This also offers a less restrained look, and may be more suitable when a ring has a round center stone.

Channel setting is also used when there is no center stone at all. The placement of baguettes around an entire band is a beautiful choice for a wedding band, one that goes well with a matching ring set with a diamond solitaire. Channel setting protects the diamonds extremely well. None of the edges are exposed, and so they are not subject to hard knocks or general wear and tear.

A variation of the channel set is called the bar channel. Here, the metal plates rise to top level of the stone, and so are visible between the stones. This gives a slightly different visual effect, and can be very striking if the contrast between the metal and the stone is significant

Pave Setting :

When the surface of a ring appears to be covered with tiny diamonds, the technique is called Pave which means paved. It's an apt name because the surface looks a bit like a very pretty street paved with cobblestones. Tiny diamonds are placed in small holes that have been drilled out of the ring shank. On a band that does not taper across the top, each diamond should be exactly the same size. The diamonds are placed in rows, but in such a way that they fill as much of the space of the surface as is possible without actual touching. The more precisely cut the diamonds, the better the final appearance of the ring.

Each tiny diamond, weighing just a few points, is fully cut with 58 facets. Though small in size, each stone contributes to the overall, shimmering look of the design. After it is positioned in its hole, tiny bits of metal from the surface of the shank are pushed over the edge of the diamond, forming tiny beads to hold the stone in place. Pave is a demanding technique that is most successfully accomplished in the hands of a patient and extremely talented jeweller.


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